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IN THE KITCHEN Marla and Steve Martin purchased Cygnet, an flush eating atom in Beverly Farms, a brace of years in the past, bankrupt it down, and reopened it a couple of months after as Dal Mare. Regardless of its Italian identify, the Martins’ new restaurant is “classically American,” in line with its web site. Earlier this yr, Ian Gallant, a steak abode adept (Capital Grille, Ocean Prime), took over as controlling chef. Gallant has saved a few of Cygnet’s comestible standbys, together with its accepted craven and apricot entrees, whereas abacus new steak, pasta, and abnormally seafood decisions to the menu. Dal mare, in case you have been questioning, is Italian for “from the ocean.”
THE LOCALE For those who’ve by no means been to this allotment of Cape Ann, be acquainted that Beverly Farms is to agriculture what Arlington Heights is to mountaineering. It’s a prosperous financial institution enclave, not a acreage city. The ambient central Dal Grownup can finest be declared as flush informal. The tables settle for blubbery white tablecloths and ample cutlery, and the delay brokers is affable and attentive. Our affair of 4, accession with a catch on a Friday night, was built-in at a ample annular desk in a superior bend with home windows on two sides. Deeper into the restaurant, the lighting was darker and added romantic, with dark-paneled partitions alternate by spotlit art work.
The vibe is stylish after actuality intimidating, adorned abounding for an ceremony banquet however easygoing abounding as a abode to seize a chunk. Supplied, that’s, that you just’re not indignant off by the costs: An appetizer of keep away from bounce rolls actuality prices $18; an appetizer of bacon-wrapped shrimp, $20.
ON THE MENU Dal Mare’s card is assorted but abridged abounding to suit on a definite ample web page. The wine account is all-encompassing and considerate. The night time we visited, the menu’s capital nonsteak entrees, or “composed plates,” included applicable wine pairings priced by the bottle ($10 to $15).
Fortunately, the parts at Dal Grownup are sizable. A bisected confined of lobster-mango-avocado bloom ($16) was as abounding as any of us would eat in a sitting. It included affluence of cute lobster and acceptable slices of starting mango and avocado, though the invoice itself wouldn’t authorize as garden-fresh.
A basin of French onion soup with broiled shallots accustomed with a blubbery aureate band of gruyere and provolone cheese ($10) and was scrumptious. A basin of seafood borsch fabricated with lobster, mollusk clams, and sherry lobster adulate ($14) was affable sufficient. The borsch was blubbery and buttery however not abnormally flavorful. Abacus alkali and pepper helped.
One other lobster dish, a ancillary of lobster pasta and cheese ($14), was accessible to adore
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