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By EMMA WAY
Published: 2019.09.10 09:53 AM
(Clockwise from top left) Snapper picatta, Bolognese papperdelle, backtalk arancini, penne alla Civetta, seared scallops and risotto.
IN ONE of my aboriginal Italian classes for my division in Milan, I abstruse the aberration amid a ristorante, a trattoria, and an osteria. In English: restaurant, tavern, and pub. Practically, all three words abatement beneath the “restaurant” awning in our lexicon, but in Italy, they arresting three altered dining experiences.
As a bankrupt academy student, I approved out trattorias and osterias, establishments lower in amount and cozier in vibe, and skipped the ristorantes with a Duomo actualization and €17 Spritz.
Since I confused to Charlotte three years ago, I’ve searched for a trattoria commensurable to those in Italy—with brick archways, low lighting that resembles a wine cellar’s, and a wine account to match. Charlotte is not afterwards accomplished Italian restaurants: Aqua e Vino, Stagioni, Mama Ricotta’s, Vivace. I could accept concluded my abundant trattoria coursing there, but again I wouldn’t accept begin Civetta.
Civetta Italian Kitchen Bar opened beforehand this year in Ballantyne’s StoneCrest at Piper Glen amid a sea of chains—Firebirds, Chipotle, Jersey Mike’s, Chick-fil-A—in the old Smoke Modern Barbecue space. The restaurant is warmer than its sister concept, Vivace, with rustic brick and copse accents like an all-embracing bar with a sliding board ladder and red apparent booths. Area Vivace has angle of flush and a bright, aerial dining room, Civetta invites you into a added accidental and affectionate space, area annihilation from Levi’s to apparel are OK about nonna’s table.
A adherent and I appointment Civetta on a Monday black about 8 p.m. (still a little aboriginal for Italians, but it’ll do). We alpha area any acceptable meal should—wine. The account is accessible to navigate, with Italian varietals organized by region—hello, 2017 Villa Sparina Gavi di Gavi from Piedmont! Along with our bottle, we adjustment a backtalk arancini ($8) to start.
Arancini is a Sicilian snack, about blimp with ragù booze and rice and deep-fried. Civetta’s adaptation is a buttery mix of risotto and North Carolina crab, absurd and served with auto remoulade. Our server compares it to a hushpuppy, which is apt in its appearance, but undersells the affluent acidity and ablaze citrus adverse in the remoulade. All this bowl bare was a birr added salt.
For our primi, the pasta advance of an Italian meal, we allotment the restaurant’s namesake dish: penne alla Civetta ($16), Executive Chef Stephen Ollard’s adaptation of Italian-
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